Question:

Thanks for looking and helping…. The amp was a complete restoration project, so value is already a non-issue, but it sounds great and I wish I could add effects to it without bogging-down the input.  I just don’t know how. I’d also like some advice – while this amp isn’t loud, I like to be able to overdrive without pissing-off the neighbors.  Short of moving or buying a new amp, I figured I should mod this one.  I added a potentiometer to the speaker connection to achieve this – now I just jack-up the original volume and taper-off this ‘master volume.’  I fear for the transformer – will this do damage?  Is there a better alternative mod? Thanks.

Response:

By "potentiometer" I hope you mean an L-Pad, otherwise you may soon fry your amp. An L-Pad maintains the correct load to your amp while reducing the signal to the speaker. As far as an effects loop goes, you should be able to AC couple the preamp output (using a capacitor of the right value) to a 1/4" jack as a "SEND" and AC couple the power amp section input similarly. If I had a schematic of the Skylark I’d offer more detail, but… Good Luck, Sam

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks for looking and helping…. > The amp was a complete restoration project, so value is already a > non-issue, but it sounds great and I wish I could add effects to it > without bogging-down the input.  I just don’t know how. > I’d also like some advice – while this amp isn’t loud, I like to be able > to overdrive without pissing-off the neighbors.  Short of moving or > buying a new amp, I figured I should mod this one.  I added a > potentiometer to the speaker connection to achieve this – now I just > jack-up the original volume and taper-off this ‘master volume.’  I fear > for the transformer – will this do damage?  Is there a better > alternative mod? > Thanks.

— This is a very simple amp, similar to a fender tweed champ. Here’s a link to the schematic: http://www1.korksoft.com/~schem/gibsonamps/ga5.pdf It only has two stages of gain before the power tube, so there’s really no reason to install an effects loop. This amp works best with effects pedals plugged into its input. I’d recommend using an overdrive pedal as your first effect. Remove that pot from your speaker ASAP, it’s a very bad idea. Instead, replace the 220k resistor, which ties the grid of the power tube to ground, with a 250k Log pot. This will give you a ‘Master Volume’ control. Attach the base of the pot to ground, the wiper (middle pin) to the grid of the power tube, and the remaining pin to the .02uF coupling cap. Note: by base I mean the pin that shorts to the wiper (middle pin) when the pot is turned counter-clockwise. DanZ —

Response:

> By "potentiometer" I hope you mean an L-Pad, otherwise you may soon fry > your amp. An L-Pad maintains the correct load to your amp while reducing > the signal to the speaker.

It is an L-pad.

Response:

Question:

What’s the best price for some passable 12 inchers, say rated for a cabinet total of 60 watts (should the total be higher rated, I plan on driving it with a 35W tube amp, and possibly a 50W in the future?). I can do 4/8/16 with my amp, so maybe a dual wired setup for 4 and 16, one for the 35W and the other for the 50W? I found two Peavey 4×12 cabs locally, and all 8 speakers are trashed, surrounds falling apart and all (maybe someone knows a reconer close to Dallas or Oklahoma City?).  Because of the trashed cones I might be able to pick them up cheap.  Someone must have left them in a storefront window with the hot sun beating on their faces for three years judging by the looks of the surrounds… I know I can’t get the ultimate tone for chump change, but something passable maybe that won’t fry on me the first time I get really bold… What can I say, I am just a po’ boy, a regular welfare case… send donations of Marshall stacks. Maybe I just like the idea of how bizarre that ancient 35W Bogen PA amp modified to a guitar amp would look sitting on top of those two Peavey cabinets?

Response:

Do you want people to remark about what great tone you have or what a cheap fuck you are with shitty tone? Phil Farano Ampmedic

What’s the best price for some passable 12 inchers, say rated for a cabinet total of 60 watts (should the total be higher rated, I plan on driving it with a 35W tube amp, and possibly a 50W in the future?). I can do 4/8/16 with my amp, so maybe a dual wired setup for 4 and 16, one for the 35W and the other for the 50W? I found two Peavey 4×12 cabs locally, and all 8 speakers are trashed, surrounds falling apart and all (maybe someone knows a reconer close to Dallas or Oklahoma City?).  Because of the trashed cones I might be able to pick them up cheap.  Someone must have left them in a storefront window with the hot sun beating on their faces for three years judging by the looks of the surrounds… I know I can’t get the ultimate tone for chump change, but something passable maybe that won’t fry on me the first time I get really bold… What can I say, I am just a po’ boy, a regular welfare case… send donations of Marshall stacks. Maybe I just like the idea of how bizarre that ancient 35W Bogen PA amp modified to a guitar amp would look sitting on top of those two Peavey cabinets?

Response:

Its mostly in the fingertips. Besides, with my chump change resources, it has to be in the fingertips, cause I ain’t likely to get it any other way.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Do you want people to remark about what great tone you have > or what a cheap fuck you are with shitty tone? > Phil Farano > Ampmedic

Response:

: What’s the best price for some passable 12 inchers, say rated for a cabinet : total of 60 watts (should the total be higher rated, I plan on driving it : with a 35W tube amp, and possibly a 50W in the future?). I can do 4/8/16 : with my amp, so maybe a dual wired setup for 4 and 16, one for the 35W and : the other for the 50W? Huh? I don’t understand this "dual wired" setup idea. If you use 16 or 4 ohm speakers, you can wire it up so that it’s switchable between 4 and 16 ohms. The power handling of the cabinet will be the same either way. : I found two Peavey 4×12 cabs locally, and all 8 speakers are trashed, : surrounds falling apart and all (maybe someone knows a reconer close to : Dallas or Oklahoma City?).  Because of the trashed cones I might be able to : pick them up cheap.  Someone must have left them in a storefront window with : the hot sun beating on their faces for three years judging by the looks of : the surrounds… : : I know I can’t get the ultimate tone for chump change, but something : passable maybe that won’t fry on me the first time I get really bold… Well, what kind of sound are you looking for? How much *can* you spend? If I were you I’d get just one of the cabs and load it up with decent speakers instead of getting both and having them both sound lousy. —                      http://www.nyx.net/~agreenbu/

Response:

call Avatar speakers or email them for the best deals.

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>call Avatar speakers or email them for the best deals.

These aren’t bad ideas.  I don’t if Peavey made good cabinets or not anyhow.  That probably varied from model to model, year to year. Those might be just fine. Eminence Legend GB12 speaker ("GB" is a Greenback reference) should be good sounding budget speakers.  I’ve heard good reports on them, but that Celestion Greenbacks are somewhat better for some situations.  On their plus side, they handle 50watts each, and the Celestions only handle 25 each. PartsExpress will sell you four 16ohm GB12s for $230.12, but I’ve heard that Avatar sells raw speakers for less. http://www.avatarspeakers.com/   I think Avatar can sell you all plywood 4×12 cabinets for around $300 with several different speaker choices and a few options.  I don’t know if they offer ohms switching as an option. Pete — Why don’t we look into the future? That’s always good for a laugh. –Grim

Response:

Hello,     Don’t cheap out on speakers.  Get a part-time job if you need extra cash – set a goal that you’ll work for _______ months to get the money for the speakers.     One of the components that is so necessary to getting your tone and sound is the speakers.  It’s my sense that if you cheap out and just put what you can get for cheap in the cabs, you’re wasting your money and throwing good money away.  If money means something to you, spend it wisely and not on cheap speakers that will not sound good.     As to what would work for you and what would sound good, you may need to post what kind of music you want to do, what guitar you play, etc.  Give the folks here some info on what you like, and you’ll get suggestions galore.     I’d probably load one of the cabs with Celestion 25 watt speakers and see what I thought, then proceed with the second cab.  And, it’s OK to load it with several different brands of speakers to get a mix of tone.     Good luck to you and enjoy your music. Walk in Beauty, Peace.  Scott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >What’s the best price for some passable 12 inchers, say rated for a cabinet >total of 60 watts (should the total be higher rated, I plan on driving it >with a 35W tube amp, and possibly a 50W in the future?). I can do 4/8/16 >with my amp, so maybe a dual wired setup for 4 and 16, one for the 35W and >the other for the 50W? >I found two Peavey 4×12 cabs locally, and all 8 speakers are trashed, >surrounds falling apart and all (maybe someone knows a reconer close to >Dallas or Oklahoma City?).  Because of the trashed cones I might be able to >pick them up cheap.  Someone must have left them in a storefront window with >the hot sun beating on their faces for three years judging by the looks of >the surrounds… >I know I can’t get the ultimate tone for chump change, but something >passable maybe that won’t fry on me the first time I get really bold… >What can I say, I am just a po’ boy, a regular welfare case… send >donations of Marshall stacks. >Maybe I just like the idea of how bizarre that ancient 35W Bogen PA amp >modified to a guitar amp would look sitting on top of those two Peavey >cabinets?

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Response:

You might want to check Avatar speakers before you buy those Peavey cabs.  I’ve never played them, but some people say that they are the best bang for the buck.  You are NOT going to find 8 12" drivers for cheap that will sound decent. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > What’s the best price for some passable 12 inchers, say rated for a cabinet > total of 60 watts (should the total be higher rated, I plan on driving it > with a 35W tube amp, and possibly a 50W in the future?). I can do 4/8/16 > with my amp, so maybe a dual wired setup for 4 and 16, one for the 35W and > the other for the 50W? > I found two Peavey 4×12 cabs locally, and all 8 speakers are trashed, > surrounds falling apart and all (maybe someone knows a reconer close to > Dallas or Oklahoma City?).  Because of the trashed cones I might be able to > pick them up cheap.  Someone must have left them in a storefront window with > the hot sun beating on their faces for three years judging by the looks of > the surrounds… > I know I can’t get the ultimate tone for chump change, but something > passable maybe that won’t fry on me the first time I get really bold… > What can I say, I am just a po’ boy, a regular welfare case… send > donations of Marshall stacks. > Maybe I just like the idea of how bizarre that ancient 35W Bogen PA amp > modified to a guitar amp would look sitting on top of those two Peavey > cabinets?

Response:

LOL! You’re a good sport. What are you looking to spend, I may have something for you? Phil Farano Ampmedic

Its mostly in the fingertips. Besides, with my chump change resources, it has to be in the fingertips, cause I ain’t likely to get it any other way.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Do you want people to remark about what great tone you have > or what a cheap fuck you are with shitty tone? > Phil Farano > Ampmedic

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Thanks for the offer.  I’ll keep you in mind, I don’t know how far down I can haggle the pawnshop, they seemed pretty reasonable for a pawn shop the last time but things have been known to change overnight sometimes at those places. So for now, I don’t know what I might have left over… just trying to get a few learned opinions here for now.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> LOL! > You’re a good sport. > What are you looking to spend, I may have something for you? > Phil Farano > Ampmedic > Its mostly in the fingertips. > Besides, with my chump change resources, it has to be in the fingertips, > cause I ain’t likely to get it any other way. > Do you want people to remark about what great tone you have > or what a cheap fuck you are with shitty tone? > Phil Farano > Ampmedic

Response:

Freeman-Tuell in Dallas recones speakers. You should check on reconing the Peavy’s. They do good work.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->call Avatar speakers or email them for the best deals. > These aren’t bad ideas.  I don’t if Peavey made good cabinets or not > anyhow.  That probably varied from model to model, year to year. > Those might be just fine. > Eminence Legend GB12 speaker ("GB" is a Greenback reference) should be > good sounding budget speakers.  I’ve heard good reports on them, but > that Celestion Greenbacks are somewhat better for some situations.  On > their plus side, they handle 50watts each, and the Celestions only > handle 25 each. > PartsExpress will sell you four 16ohm GB12s for $230.12, but I’ve > heard that Avatar sells raw speakers for less. > http://www.avatarspeakers.com/ > I think Avatar can sell you all plywood 4×12 cabinets for around $300 > with several different speaker choices and a few options.  I don’t > know if they offer ohms switching as an option. > Pete > — > Why don’t we look into the future? > That’s always good for a laugh. –Grim

Response:

Hey thanks for the info! Where about in Dallas, what part?  Not the south side I hope…  I wouldn’t want to come back to my car and find it looking like it had been sitting in a junkyard for 10 years, or be gone entirely… What was your experience with them, what was their price like, are they reasonable? Do they have a web site? I was thinking of driving down to Dallas for their all night first Saturday computer sale one of these times anyway, maybe I should get there earlier Friday afternoon and check Freeman-Tuell out… I remember I had a pair of huge Acoustic Research AR-2ax stereo speakers reconed at Market Speaker in St. Paul  Minnesota in 1985, and with new replacement crossovers and a complete recone it was only like $60 total, very reasonable, and the results were perfect.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Freeman-Tuell in Dallas recones speakers. You should check on reconing the > Peavy’s. They do good work.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hello, >     Don’t cheap out on speakers.  Get a part-time job if you need extra > cash – set a goal that you’ll work for _______ months to get the money for > the speakers. >     One of the components that is so necessary to getting your tone and > sound is the speakers.  It’s my sense that if you cheap out and just put > what you can get for cheap in the cabs, you’re wasting your money and > throwing good money away.  If money means something to you, spend it wisely > and not on cheap speakers that will not sound good. >     As to what would work for you and what would sound good, you may need to > post what kind of music you want to do, what guitar you play, etc.  Give the > folks here some info on what you like, and you’ll get suggestions galore. >     I’d probably load one of the cabs with Celestion 25 watt speakers and > see what I thought, then proceed with the second cab.  And, it’s OK to load > it with several different brands of speakers to get a mix of tone. >     Good luck to you and enjoy your music. > Walk in Beauty, Peace.  Scott

Good advice.. I’ve wasted more money on ‘bad’ speakers than any other part of my GAS habit. That being said, I’ll offer two rays of hope for the hopelessly cheap. (I am one of you) 1. Look at old organ speakers. They tend to be gently used and often sound great, and can be had for $10 to $20 apiece. They can also be unreliable, and some are just plain crap, but I’ve had a lot of fun experimenting with them. 2. Match the speakers to their intended use. Case in point: I bought some torn up late sixties Fender Utahs recently. I was looking for one good vintage 12" ceramic speaker for a project. So I bought the lot of 4 for $30 bucks and had 2 reconed locally. They sounded like SHIT in the cab I wanted to use one in. I spent about a week pissing and moaning and then decided to try an experiment. I’d found a 50+ year old solid pine kitchen cabinet in the alley around that time. Thought it might make a fun cab project. So I loaded the two Utahs into the thing after I’d rebuilt it and covered it and WOW. Awesome tone. Those speakers needed room to breathe, to reverberate. These days I run that cab with my Bandmaster and love the sound. So, a little fooling around led me to a very cool tone. The total investment in the cab was under $150, and there aren’t many stock cabs out there that sound as good in that configuration. That’s just the way those speakers were meant to be used. Sorry this was so long. Hope it gives you some ideas. Chuck

Response:

Hi, Chuck Well said. Speaker is most important link in a audio reproduction (whether it’s music or vocal). Skimp on it, then the rest is moot. Tony – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hello, >    Don’t cheap out on speakers.  Get a part-time job if you need extra >cash – set a goal that you’ll work for _______ months to get the money for >the speakers. >    One of the components that is so necessary to getting your tone and >sound is the speakers.  It’s my sense that if you cheap out and just put >what you can get for cheap in the cabs, you’re wasting your money and >throwing good money away.  If money means something to you, spend it wisely >and not on cheap speakers that will not sound good. >    As to what would work for you and what would sound good, you may need to >post what kind of music you want to do, what guitar you play, etc.  Give the >folks here some info on what you like, and you’ll get suggestions galore. >    I’d probably load one of the cabs with Celestion 25 watt speakers and >see what I thought, then proceed with the second cab.  And, it’s OK to load >it with several different brands of speakers to get a mix of tone. >    Good luck to you and enjoy your music. >Walk in Beauty, Peace.  Scott > Good advice.. I’ve wasted more money on ‘bad’ speakers than any other > part of my GAS habit. That being said, I’ll offer two rays of hope for > the hopelessly cheap. (I am one of you) > 1. Look at old organ speakers. They tend to be gently used and often > sound great, and can be had for $10 to $20 apiece. They can also be > unreliable, and some are just plain crap, but I’ve had a lot of fun > experimenting with them. > 2. Match the speakers to their intended use. Case in point: I bought > some torn up late sixties Fender Utahs recently. I was looking for one > good vintage 12" ceramic speaker for a project. So I bought the lot of > 4 for $30 bucks and had 2 reconed locally. They sounded like SHIT in > the cab I wanted to use one in. I spent about a week pissing and > moaning and then decided to try an experiment. > I’d found a 50+ year old solid pine kitchen cabinet in the alley > around that time. Thought it might make a fun cab project. So I loaded > the two Utahs into the thing after I’d rebuilt it and covered it and > WOW. Awesome tone. Those speakers needed room to breathe, to > reverberate. These days I run that cab with my Bandmaster and love the > sound. > So, a little fooling around led me to a very cool tone. The total > investment in the cab was under $150, and there aren’t many stock cabs > out there that sound as good in that configuration. That’s just the > way those speakers were meant to be used. > Sorry this was so long. Hope it gives you some ideas. > Chuck

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http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2542831863&categor… Would those have been worth getting?

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I mean, I can always upgrade, and as long as I can stay away from the real useless junk like the heavy coned eminence and the like, and maybe get some specific advice if the opportunity arises, I would think that sets of speakers in general taken out of cabinets for upgrades, while not being tone heaven or anything (or else why would they have to be upgrded…), they would still at least get the job done well enough for a few months or a year or two.  Hey maybe I’d get lucky, speakers that sound like shit in one cabinet have been known to sound really decent in a different one.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2542831863&categor… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Would those have been worth getting?

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I mean, I can always upgrade, and as long as I can stay away from the real > useless junk like the heavy coned eminence and the like, and maybe get some > specific advice if the opportunity arises, I would think that sets of > speakers in general taken out of cabinets for upgrades, while not being tone > heaven or anything (or else why would they have to be upgrded…), they > would still at least get the job done well enough for a few months or a year > or two.  Hey maybe I’d get lucky, speakers that sound like shit in one > cabinet have been known to sound really decent in a different one. > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2542831863&categor… > Would those have been worth getting?

Compared to "heavy coned Eminence", both in sound and power handling, those are complete trash. Ya know, not all Eminence speakers are heavy coned and dull sounding. They make a lot of different speakers, and most are for OEM amp companies. In the case of an OEM, *they* spec the speaker that they want at a price/ power rating etc… This has given Eminence a bad rep that I don’t think they deserve. It’s not their fault that Peavey, Fender, Whoever… wants to put $10 speakers into their amps. They would gladly sell them better speakers. I’ve had pretty good luck with the MOJOTONE/Eminence speakers and others here claim that the Reverend/Eminence speakers kick ass. I suspect it’s because those OEM’s knew how to spec a decent speaker, and were willing to pay $2 more to get it. Normally, I would suggest Weber VST to about anyone. But with your budget constraints, and Weber’s lack of a budget 12" (on their site), I would suggest Mojotone from their surplus seller on eBay. His eBay user name is "nshocking". He’s done right by me before. Here is one of his current auctions: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10171&item=254… click on his other auctions to see more speakers. Here’s the $59 Reverend/Eminence All-Tone: http://reverenddirect.com/reverend/amps_etc/alltone_speakers.html Here’s a good place to look at Jensens and Celestions: http://www.tubesandmore.com/ BTW, the old (probably Eminence AlNiCo) speakers in the Peavey cabs *might be worth reconing, if you can get them done for $35-$40 each. I have a 1974 Peavey Classic 50 watt with 4-10" of those, and I *like* ‘em! If they’re the old Eminence ceramics, I wouldn’t bother, as you can buy new ones as cheap (or cheaper) as recone. Good Luck! John King

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I appreciate the links and all the good advice. Damn with my budget it looks like I would have to trade and deal for the two cabs, then either recone or replace the speakers in one of the cabs and let the other one sit and gather dust for a while. If I actually land a gig around here somewhere I can still piss bar owners off by bringing both of them in but just playing out of one of em, right? They’ll nver know…  And anymore one is really all you need anyway, hell even a 2×12 works good with a 30 watt amp most of the time I hear.  But you know the power trip or ego trip that goes with the full stack, and I fear I am not strong enough to resist the urge… How can you tell the difference between the alnicos and the ceramics?  Are the ceramic magnets a lot bigger than the alnicos? I heard Ted Nugent lines up a slew of empty stack cabinets on stage and then plays out of one smaller miked amp, wouldn’t surprise me.  A lot easier on the roadies’ backs, for sure. Are there dead giveaways to the cheap Eminence (or to the really decent ones) just by eyeballing them?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I mean, I can always upgrade, and as long as I can stay away from the real > useless junk like the heavy coned eminence and the like, and maybe get some > specific advice if the opportunity arises, I would think that sets of > speakers in general taken out of cabinets for upgrades, while not being tone > heaven or anything (or else why would they have to be upgrded…), they > would still at least get the job done well enough for a few months or a year > or two.  Hey maybe I’d get lucky, speakers that sound like shit in one > cabinet have been known to sound really decent in a different one.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2542831863&categor… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Would those have been worth getting? > Compared to "heavy coned Eminence", both in sound and > power handling, those are complete trash. > Ya know, not all Eminence speakers are heavy coned and > dull sounding. They make a lot of different speakers, > and most are for OEM amp companies. In the case of an > OEM, *they* spec the speaker that they want at a price/ > power rating etc… This has given Eminence a bad rep > that I don’t think they deserve. It’s not their fault > that Peavey, Fender, Whoever… wants to put $10 speakers > into their amps. They would gladly sell them better > speakers. > I’ve had pretty good luck with the MOJOTONE/Eminence > speakers and others here claim that the Reverend/Eminence > speakers kick ass. I suspect it’s because those OEM’s > knew how to spec a decent speaker, and were willing to > pay $2 more to get it. > Normally, I would suggest Weber VST to about anyone. > But with your budget constraints, and Weber’s lack of a > budget 12" (on their site), I would suggest Mojotone from their > surplus seller on eBay. His eBay user name is "nshocking". He’s > done right by me before. Here is one of his current auctions:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10171&item=254… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> click on his other auctions to see more speakers. > Here’s the $59 Reverend/Eminence All-Tone: > http://reverenddirect.com/reverend/amps_etc/alltone_speakers.html > Here’s a good place to look at Jensens and Celestions: > http://www.tubesandmore.com/ > BTW, the old (probably Eminence AlNiCo) speakers in the Peavey > cabs *might be worth reconing, if you can get them done for $35-$40 > each. I have a 1974 Peavey Classic 50 watt with 4-10" of those, > and I *like* ‘em! > If they’re the old Eminence ceramics, I wouldn’t bother, as you can > buy new ones as cheap (or cheaper) as recone. > Good Luck! > John King

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>     As to what would work for you and what would sound good, you may need to > post what kind of music you want to do, what guitar you play, etc.  Give the > folks here some info on what you like, and you’ll get suggestions galore. >     I’d probably load one of the cabs with Celestion 25 watt speakers and > see what I thought, then proceed with the second cab.  And, it’s OK to load > it with several different brands of speakers to get a mix of tone. >     Good luck to you and enjoy your music. > Walk in Beauty, Peace.  Scott

Aerosmith, Styx (Grand Illusion, Blue Collar Man, Miss America), Boston, Foghat, AC/DC, and maybe some Judas Preist and Iron Maiden and some few other metal tunes, but I want it to punch through clean when I want it to for some Rush, Skynyrd, maybe even some Blondie and Beatles. I have a strat copy and an Aria Pro II RS series Bobcat with s/s/h.  I guess I’m partial to a strat. Hooked up to a 35W or 50W tube head.

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East Dallas (Ferguson Rd), Google search them and their phone # will come up. They reconed a 58 fender champ speaker to "old specs" with new voice coil for 35 bucks. Did a superb job. That’s what they do, and they do it well. Restorers of old amps all send to them. I never set foot in the place. dealt by phone, shipped them the speaker and they shipped it back.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hey thanks for the info! > Where about in Dallas, what part?  Not the south side I hope…  I wouldn’t > want to come back to my car and find it looking like it had been sitting in > a junkyard for 10 years, or be gone entirely… > What was your experience with them, what was their price like, are they > reasonable? > Do they have a web site? > I was thinking of driving down to Dallas for their all night first Saturday > computer sale one of these times anyway, maybe I should get there earlier > Friday afternoon and check Freeman-Tuell out… > I remember I had a pair of huge Acoustic Research AR-2ax stereo speakers > reconed at Market Speaker in St. Paul  Minnesota in 1985, and with new > replacement crossovers and a complete recone it was only like $60 total, > very reasonable, and the results were perfect. > Freeman-Tuell in Dallas recones speakers. You should check on reconing the > Peavy’s. They do good work.

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I agree with all of them about the speaker being crucial. One of my favorite small club amps is an Elektar Tube 30 (don’t laugh!).  It sounded like crap until i put in some JJ tubes and replaced the speaker. I decided to try an Eminence V-30 clone … It’s a great little speaker IMHO. I get all kinds of compliments on my tone now ! Another speaker source i’ve found is used speakers.  A lot of stores in my town (Nashvegas) sell used stuff. Talk to the people, let them know you’re not a shemp who’s gonna wire it up wrong, or just hook it up at the store.  I’ve bought used Celestions for $25 – $50 and been very happy with them. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->     As to what would work for you and what would sound good, you may need >  to > post what kind of music you want to do, what guitar you play, etc.  Give >  the > folks here some info on what you like, and you’ll get suggestions galore. >     I’d probably load one of the cabs with Celestion 25 watt speakers and > see what I thought, then proceed with the second cab.  And, it’s OK to >  load > it with several different brands of speakers to get a mix of tone. >     Good luck to you and enjoy your music. > Walk in Beauty, Peace.  Scott > Aerosmith, Styx (Grand Illusion, Blue Collar Man, Miss America), Boston, > Foghat, AC/DC, and maybe some Judas Preist and Iron Maiden and some few > other metal tunes, but I want it to punch through clean when I want it to > for some Rush, Skynyrd, maybe even some Blondie and Beatles. > I have a strat copy and an Aria Pro II RS series Bobcat with s/s/h.  I guess > I’m partial to a strat. > Hooked up to a 35W or 50W tube head.

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The Reverend Alltone is the best of the budget speakers based on a vintage Jensen C12n.

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There’s a great speaker reconer in Dallas called Freeman-Tuell. They’re on Ferguson in East Dallas.  You can look them up in the phone book.  But, it’s probably going to run you about $35-50ea to have the speakers reconed.  So, you’d have up to $200 into questionable speakers.  I’m sure if you look hard enough you can dig up a Marshall for $300.  I just picked up a 74 Marshall cab with greenbacks for $299!  I see used Marshall’s all the time for $350-400 as well.  Even on a budget, you can’t get much better than that.  If you’re really looking for cheap, pick up an Ampeg V4 cab or possibly a Crate if you’re just looking for something to push air and aren’t really worried about the sound.  The Ampeg’s are good, the Crate’s not so good, but both are cheap….can be found for around $200 if you look hard. later, m

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Their work is great at F-T, but it all depends on what they’re reconing.  Eminence and Jensen types are almost always cheaper than say a vintage Celestion speaker.  You’re question is sorta like asking how much will a new engine cost for my Mustang?  Which engine, what year, etc…. …it all depends. later, m

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i put  4 reverend alltone speakers in my rivera cab a few weeks ago and i really like them.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I mean, I can always upgrade, and as long as I can stay away from the real > useless junk like the heavy coned eminence and the like, and maybe get some > specific advice if the opportunity arises, I would think that sets of > speakers in general taken out of cabinets for upgrades, while not being tone > heaven or anything (or else why would they have to be upgrded…), they > would still at least get the job done well enough for a few months or a year > or two.  Hey maybe I’d get lucky, speakers that sound like shit in one > cabinet have been known to sound really decent in a different one.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2542831863&categor… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Would those have been worth getting? > Compared to "heavy coned Eminence", both in sound and > power handling, those are complete trash. > Ya know, not all Eminence speakers are heavy coned and > dull sounding. They make a lot of different speakers, > and most are for OEM amp companies. In the case of an > OEM, *they* spec the speaker that they want at a price/ > power rating etc… This has given Eminence a bad rep > that I don’t think they deserve. It’s not their fault > that Peavey, Fender, Whoever… wants to put $10 speakers > into their amps. They would gladly sell them better > speakers. > I’ve had pretty good luck with the MOJOTONE/Eminence > speakers and others here claim that the Reverend/Eminence > speakers kick ass. I suspect it’s because those OEM’s > knew how to spec a decent speaker, and were willing to > pay $2 more to get it. > Normally, I would suggest Weber VST to about anyone. > But with your budget constraints, and Weber’s lack of a > budget 12" (on their site), I would suggest Mojotone from their > surplus seller on eBay. His eBay user name is "nshocking". He’s > done right by me before. Here is one of his current auctions:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10171&item=254… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> click on his other auctions to see more speakers. > Here’s the $59 Reverend/Eminence All-Tone: > http://reverenddirect.com/reverend/amps_etc/alltone_speakers.html > Here’s a good place to look at Jensens and Celestions: > http://www.tubesandmore.com/ > BTW, the old (probably Eminence AlNiCo) speakers in the Peavey > cabs *might be worth reconing, if you can get them done for $35-$40 > each. I have a 1974 Peavey Classic 50 watt with 4-10" of those, > and I *like* ‘em! > If they’re the old Eminence ceramics, I wouldn’t bother, as you can > buy new ones as cheap (or cheaper) as recone. > Good Luck! > John King

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Question:

Hi there, I wonder if anyone is using the Mesa V-twin rackmount in combination with a good (tube)poweramp. At the moment I’m using my V-twin as a pre-amp into my Bedrock 50 watt tube combo. I like the lead sound I get (could do with a little more gain though), but the powerchord sounds I get, hmmm, I don’t know…. I’m curious what the difference would be if I use the V-twin directly into a poweramp, I suppose that’s the only way to hear what the V-twin really sounds like. Any help would be great. Peter

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I’ll probably sell mine. Have tried it in preamp configuration with both a Fender DeVille and a Marshall JCM 2000 TSL and the tone is very "brown" with very little clarity boost. Have tried strats, teles and Les Pauls with it and it just doesn’t have the magic. McT – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Hi there, >I wonder if anyone is using the Mesa V-twin rackmount in combination >with a good (tube)poweramp. At the moment I’m using my V-twin as a >pre-amp into my Bedrock 50 watt tube combo. I like the lead sound I get >(could do with a little more gain though), but the powerchord sounds I >get, hmmm, I don’t know…. >I’m curious what the difference would be if I use the V-twin directly >into a poweramp, I suppose that’s the only way to hear what the V-twin >really sounds like. Any help would be great. >Peter

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I’ve heard (I dunno for sure) that it should like double the gain, and give a dual recto sound if you use it with a tube power amp..(no heads.) michael – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’ll probably sell mine. Have tried it in preamp configuration with > both a Fender DeVille and a Marshall JCM 2000 TSL and the tone is very > "brown" with very little clarity boost. Have tried strats, teles and > Les Pauls with it and it just doesn’t have the magic. > McT >Hi there, >I wonder if anyone is using the Mesa V-twin rackmount in combination >with a good (tube)poweramp. At the moment I’m using my V-twin as a >pre-amp into my Bedrock 50 watt tube combo. I like the lead sound I get >(could do with a little more gain though), but the powerchord sounds I >get, hmmm, I don’t know…. >I’m curious what the difference would be if I use the V-twin directly >into a poweramp, I suppose that’s the only way to hear what the V-twin >really sounds like. Any help would be great. >Peter

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Question:

Should I sell My Boogie and get a solid state amp. To get it running again it will cost 150-200 dollars for tubes?

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Well, you could do that. But because I am a really nice guy, I’ll save you the money and trade you even up for one of my solid-state amps. <G> — Please visit: http://www.soundclick.com/bands/2/edcreggermusic.htm to listen to my tunes. Thanks. Ed Cregger

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Should I sell My Boogie and get a solid state amp. To get it running again > it will cost 150-200 dollars for tubes?

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> Should I sell My Boogie and get a solid state amp. To get it running again > it will cost 150-200 dollars for tubes?

Yes, that would be the best route to go if you think that saving a small amount of money is more important than having decent tone… Lloyd

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>Should I sell My Boogie and get a solid state amp. To get it running again >it will cost 150-200 dollars for tubes?

Your option is buying a solid state, and buying a new solid state amp every other time it goes bad because repair costs would outweigh the price of another one.  At least a good (keyword:GOOD) tube amp is usually worth repairing.  The older ones don’t require high tech fees for tracking problems through multiple circuit boards … the problems are usually pretty cut and dry.  Especially the ones with fewer bells and whistles.  And they usually sound better, too. Lostpup198 "People everywhere confuse what they read in newspapers with news." — A. J. Liebling [Abbott Joseph Liebling] (1904-1963) Journalist, author Source: The New Yorker, 7 April 1956

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> Should I sell My Boogie and get a solid state amp. To get it running again > it will cost 150-200 dollars for tubes?

Lord Valve Speaketh: If you want to, you can certainly spend that much for a set. You can spend a helluva lot less, too.  Post your tube list and I’ll specify a set you can afford – a set that’ll *sound* good, too, because that’s the important part.  Don’t throw your bread away on SS crap – you’ve already got a good amp. Lord Valve Expert      VISIT MY WEBSITE:  http://www.nebsnow.com/LordValve       I specialize in top quality HAND SELECTED NOS and         current-production vacuum tubes for guitar and            bass amps.  Good  prices, fast service.      QSC amps, RNC compressors, lots of other good stuff!    Partial Client List: * Derek Trucks/Allman Brothers Band * * Meatloaf * Catherine Wheel * Yo La Tengo * Let’s Go Bowling *   * Fleetwood Mac * Tyrin Benoit * Eugene Fodor * Dale Bruning *  * Komet Amplification * Dr. Z * Maven Peal * Blockhead Amps *   * Jim Kelley * Balls Amplification * Roccaforte Amplifiers * * Gerhart Amplification * Aiken Amplification * The Right Half of AGA *                        * Lots More *     NBS Electronics, 230 South Broadway, Denver, CO  80209-1510 Phone orders/tech support after 1:30 PM Denver time at 303-778-1156                        - Our 23rd Year –                   VISA – MASTERCARD – PAYPAL "I’m not an asshole, but I *play* one on the Internet." – Lord Valve

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I have never had a solid state amp need repair, Tony. Never. Ed Cregger — Please visit: http://www.soundclick.com/bands/2/edcreggermusic.htm to listen to my tunes. Thanks.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Should I sell My Boogie and get a solid state amp. To get it running again >it will cost 150-200 dollars for tubes? > Your option is buying a solid state, and buying a new solid state amp every > other time it goes bad because repair costs would outweigh the price of another > one.  At least a good (keyword:GOOD) tube amp is usually worth repairing. The > older ones don’t require high tech fees for tracking problems through multiple > circuit boards … the problems are usually pretty cut and dry. Especially the > ones with fewer bells and whistles.  And they usually sound better, too. > Lostpup198 > "People everywhere confuse what they read in newspapers with news." > — A. J. Liebling > [Abbott Joseph Liebling] (1904-1963) Journalist, author > Source: The New Yorker, 7 April 1956

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>I have never had a solid state amp need repair, Tony. Never. >Ed Cregger

I’ve never had a solid state amp – period. But I am planning to check out the Vox Pathfinder 15R for a small practice amp. The Rickenbacker guys seem to really like them.

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I will trade you my Marshall solid state. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Should I sell My Boogie and get a solid state amp. To get it running again > it will cost 150-200 dollars for tubes?

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> Should I sell My Boogie and get a solid state amp. To get it running again > it will cost 150-200 dollars for tubes?

What tubes do you need? I have a bunch of Boogie tubes that I no longer use (don’t have a Boogie anymore)…6L6s, and some 12AX7s. They’re all in good shape, as I tend to replace things long before they need replacing. ;-/ Let me know if you’re interested. George Reiswig Song of the River Music

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>I have never had a solid state amp need repair, Tony. Never. >Ed Cregger

I have … so what’s your point?  Besides, let’s decipher exactly what you are saying.  Are you saying that you have never had anyone bring one in for repair (maybe because they already decided it wouldn’t be worth it)?  Are you saying that you haven’t personally needed one of your own SS amps to be repaired?  Are you saying that although someone brought in an amp for you to repair, they opted to not have it repaired?  Or are you saying that people decide to buy another amp because they don’t really want their crappy SS amp repaired because it really didn’t suit them after all?  Be specific … Lostpup198 "People everywhere confuse what they read in newspapers with news." — A. J. Liebling [Abbott Joseph Liebling] (1904-1963) Journalist, author Source: The New Yorker, 7 April 1956

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I have never had a solid state amp need repair, Tony. Never. >Ed Cregger > I have … so what’s your point?  Besides, let’s decipher exactly what you are > saying.  Are you saying that you have never had anyone bring one in for repair > (maybe because they already decided it wouldn’t be worth it)?  Are you saying > that you haven’t personally needed one of your own SS amps to be repaired? Are > you saying that although someone brought in an amp for you to repair, they > opted to not have it repaired?  Or are you saying that people decide to buy > another amp because they don’t really want their crappy SS amp repaired because > it really didn’t suit them after all?  Be specific …

What I am saying is that solid-state amps OF THE SAME QUALITY AND EXPENSE almost never need repair. I have and have had Kustom, Gibson, Peavey and Acoustic amps that were well traveled that never let me down once while gigging. Admittedly, neither did my Fender and Ampeg tube amps. Some of my friends were always taking their tube amps in for tube or transformer replacement. I tend to buy amps that are larger in capacity than most folks. Mine just loaf along and never break into a sweat on a gig. A lot of it has to do with how a person cares for them. However, never once did I have to replace a solid-state device because it leaked or blew out like a common light bulb. There is tons of junk out there. Some solid-state and some tube. All tube amps need tubes replaced periodically. Solid-state amps do not need their active devices replaced regularly simply because they wore out. I own both types. Always will, if I have anything to say about it. But this baloney that only tube amps are good is a crock. They both have advantages and disadvantages. Ed Cregger

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> I have never had a solid state amp need repair, Tony. Never. > Ed Cregger

Then you are one lucky dude!  Or…..don’t own or use any solid state amps <G>! Walt Campbell Campbell Sound www.campbellsound.com —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Should I sell My Boogie and get a solid state amp. To get it running again > it will cost 150-200 dollars for tubes? > Lord Valve Speaketh: > If you want to, you can certainly spend that much for a set. > You can spend a helluva lot less, too.  Post your tube list > and I’ll specify a set you can afford – a set that’ll *sound* > good, too, because that’s the important part.  Don’t throw > your bread away on SS crap – you’ve already got a good > amp. > Lord Valve

Hey, LV.  Kind of OT but… I have Boogie DC3 (if i decide to keep it), and I like the sound sometimes and other times not.  A lot of time it’s a bit too midrangey for me. I’m pretty sure it has stock Boogie tubes in it. I’m just wondering if you can recommend a different tube that might sound better in this amp. Thanks Shawn

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>>Should I sell My Boogie and get a solid state amp. To get it running again >it will cost 150-200 dollars for tubes? > Yes, that would be the best route to go if you think that saving a small > amount of money is more important than having decent tone… > Lloyd

Hi, I am glad son got rid of Tech 21 TM 60 in less than a month. Funny thing is he got more than what he paid for, LOL. TM10 is staying. It turned out, it works well as recording amp. Only SS amp in this household. Tony

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>Should I sell My Boogie and get a solid state amp. To get it running again >>it will cost 150-200 dollars for tubes? > Yes, that would be the best route to go if you think that saving a small > amount of money is more important than having decent tone… > Lloyd >Hi, >I am glad son got rid of Tech 21 TM 60 in less than a month. >Funny thing is he got more than what he paid for, LOL. >TM10 is staying. It turned out, it works well as recording amp. >Only SS amp in this household. >Tony

What do you like about it? I’m in the market for a small SS practice amp (like a Vox Pathfinder 15R). The Rickenbacker guys love that one with their Rics and I have a Ric 620-12 that I’m continually messing with. I never play out with it.

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> If you want to, you can certainly spend that much for a set. > You can spend a helluva lot less, too.  Post your tube list > and I’ll specify a set you can afford – a set that’ll *sound* > good, too, because that’s the important part.

(shameless plug) Believe him.  It’s in his QA & lots of field feedback.  Sent me an inexpensive set a few days ago for one of my customers on a tight budget – cust couldn’t afford nor need my NO$ along with the repair job.  Nor was I about to order 2-3x as many elsewhere to burn-in & sort through for the needed result (also impractical within budget).  The amp’s gigging this evening & sounds so good that it’s already brought me 2 more pcs of referral biz.  I seldom have to buy tubes from others, but IMHO you’re unlikely to match his value & service.  There are things someone who burns-in & QA’s hundreds of each tube version can do that others just can’t, & carefully selected inexpensive tubes will often outdo very costly ones bought off-the-shelf. Suggest give it a workout with a good economical set of new bottles before you make a keep/sell decision.  Might consider tailoring it to your style with a spkr change, too, if you’re thinking as radically about tonal change to be considering SS. > Don’t throw > your bread away on SS crap – you’ve already got a good > amp.

C’mon, for SS there’s crap, half-decent & superb, be nice!  :-)  But depending on your style, most excellent SS costs more than the Boogie. I have years of gigtime with SS too & still use both.  But I can’t agree w/reports that SS is somehow more reliable in pushed workingman use.  For the average player, firebottle amps usually give some notice of impending trouble, with opportunity for service B4 they smoke or croak.  SS tends to fail without warning & often requires a higher skill level and/or more benchtime to diagnose & repair.

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Should I sell My Boogie and get a solid state amp. To get it running again > it will cost 150-200 dollars for tubes? > What tubes do you need? I have a bunch of Boogie tubes that I no longer use > (don’t have a Boogie anymore)…6L6s, and some 12AX7s. They’re all in good > shape, as I tend to replace things long before they need replacing. ;-/ > Let me know if you’re interested. > George Reiswig > Song of the River Music > My Boogie is the Caliber .50 model, 50 watt head, 2/12 cabinet, circa

1990. The tubes are 2 big ones and 6 small ones i think.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Should I sell My Boogie and get a solid state amp. To get it running again > > it will cost 150-200 dollars for tubes? > Lord Valve Speaketh: > If you want to, you can certainly spend that much for a set. > You can spend a helluva lot less, too.  Post your tube list > and I’ll specify a set you can afford – a set that’ll *sound* > good, too, because that’s the important part.  Don’t throw > your bread away on SS crap – you’ve already got a good > amp. > Lord Valve > Hey, LV.  Kind of OT but… > I have Boogie DC3 (if i decide to keep it), and I like the sound > sometimes and other times not.  A lot of time it’s a bit too midrangey > for me. > I’m pretty sure it has stock Boogie tubes in it. > I’m just wondering if you can recommend a different tube that might > sound better in this amp. > Thanks > Shawn

Do you mean, just the power tubes, or the whole shebang? Also, when folks ask me stuff like this, it’d be helpful if they posted their amp’s tube compliment along with the questions. I know a whole *mess* of amps, but not all of ‘em.  And Boogie has a bunch of those DC-things. Lord Valve Expert

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Should I sell My Boogie and get a solid state amp. To get it running > again > > it will cost 150-200 dollars for tubes? > What tubes do you need? I have a bunch of Boogie tubes that I no longer > use > (don’t have a Boogie anymore)…6L6s, and some 12AX7s. They’re all in good > shape, as I tend to replace things long before they need replacing. ;-/ > Let me know if you’re interested. > George Reiswig > Song of the River Music > My Boogie is the Caliber .50 model, 50 watt head, 2/12 cabinet, circa > 1990. The tubes are 2 big ones and 6 small ones i think.

Whoa, that’s some good technical data there, hoss. Well, for the "2 big ones" I’d probably say go with the Reflektor-production Svetlana 6L6s.  That’s right, I said *Reflektor-production* Svets, *not* SEDs.  The SEDs sound fine, but they tend to get rattly fairly quickly when operated upside-down.  The Reflektor Svets are *tight* inside, and sound great.  ($15 each.) The "6 small ones I think" are probably all 12AX7s, although Boogie has been known to stuff a 12AT7 into the reverb drive hole now and then.  Boogie amps *love* the late-80s Beijing-production gray-plate 12AX7s (in fact, many of them were designed around this tube) but they’re a bit scarce these days and a little pricy.  ($15 each.)  The current-production C-9 12AX7 from Shuguang (also referred to as the C-4, for some inscrutable Oriental reason) is very similar in tone, with a slightly higher noise floor.  (It’s made on the same machinery as the old ones, but the folks making it don’t quite have the chops the Beijing folks had.  It’ll get better.) ($9 each.)  If you play with your controls dimed, go for the Beijings.  If you need a 12AT7, NOS American ones are still plentiful and cheap.  ($12 each.)  Note that these prices will vary a bit depending on who you buy them from.  (Some dealers are much more tolerant during the selection process, and their prices may reflect this.) Lord Valve Expert      VISIT MY WEBSITE:  http://www.nebsnow.com/LordValve       I specialize in top quality HAND SELECTED NOS and         current-production vacuum tubes for guitar and            bass amps.  Good  prices, fast service.      QSC amps, RNC compressors, lots of other good stuff!    Partial Client List: * Derek Trucks/Allman Brothers Band * * Meatloaf * Catherine Wheel * Yo La Tengo * Let’s Go Bowling *   * Fleetwood Mac * Tyrin Benoit * Eugene Fodor * Dale Bruning *  * Komet Amplification * Dr. Z * Maven Peal * Blockhead Amps *   * Jim Kelley * Balls Amplification * Roccaforte Amplifiers * * Gerhart Amplification * Aiken Amplification * The Right Half of AGA *                        * Lots More *     NBS Electronics, 230 South Broadway, Denver, CO  80209-1510 Phone orders/tech support after 1:30 PM Denver time at 303-778-1156                        - Our 23rd Year –                   VISA – MASTERCARD – PAYPAL                  "Posterity will ne’er overcome                   A nobler grave than this;                   Here lie the bones of Blumb the Dumb –                   Stop, traveler, and piss."                          - Lord Valve –           (Paraphrase of Lord Byron, on Lord Castlereagh)

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BTW, if you really want to go economy class, the Shuguang 6L6GC-M is unbeatable.  $19/pair.  Sounds better than a lot of pretty famous NOS, too, but I’d better not say anything – the Glass Snobs will be peeing all over themselves if they see something like that.  ;-) LV – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > > Should I sell My Boogie and get a solid state amp. To get it running > again > > > it will cost 150-200 dollars for tubes? > > What tubes do you need? I have a bunch of Boogie tubes that I no longer > use > > (don’t have a Boogie anymore)…6L6s, and some 12AX7s. They’re all in good > > shape, as I tend to replace things long before they need replacing. ;-/ > > Let me know if you’re interested. > > George Reiswig > > Song of the River Music > > My Boogie is the Caliber .50 model, 50 watt head, 2/12 cabinet, circa > 1990. The tubes are 2 big ones and 6 small ones i think. > Whoa, that’s some good technical data there, hoss. > Well, for the "2 big ones" I’d probably say go with the > Reflektor-production Svetlana 6L6s.  That’s right, I > said *Reflektor-production* Svets, *not* SEDs.  The > SEDs sound fine, but they tend to get rattly fairly > quickly when operated upside-down.  The Reflektor Svets > are *tight* inside, and sound great.  ($15 each.) > The "6 small ones I think" are probably all 12AX7s, > although Boogie has been known to stuff a 12AT7 > into the reverb drive hole now and then.  Boogie > amps *love* the late-80s Beijing-production gray-plate > 12AX7s (in fact, many of them were designed around > this tube) but they’re a bit scarce these days and a little > pricy.  ($15 each.)  The current-production C-9 12AX7 > from Shuguang (also referred to as the C-4, for some > inscrutable Oriental reason) is very similar in tone, with > a slightly higher noise floor.  (It’s made on the same > machinery as the old ones, but the folks making it don’t > quite have the chops the Beijing folks had.  It’ll get better.) > ($9 each.)  If you play with your controls dimed, go for the > Beijings.  If you need a 12AT7, NOS American ones > are still plentiful and cheap.  ($12 each.)  Note that > these prices will vary a bit depending on who you > buy them from.  (Some dealers are much more tolerant > during the selection process, and their prices may > reflect this.) > Lord Valve > Expert >      VISIT MY WEBSITE:  http://www.nebsnow.com/LordValve >       I specialize in top quality HAND SELECTED NOS and >         current-production vacuum tubes for guitar and >            bass amps.  Good  prices, fast service. >      QSC amps, RNC compressors, lots of other good stuff! >    Partial Client List: * Derek Trucks/Allman Brothers Band * > * Meatloaf * Catherine Wheel * Yo La Tengo * Let’s Go Bowling * >   * Fleetwood Mac * Tyrin Benoit * Eugene Fodor * Dale Bruning * >  * Komet Amplification * Dr. Z * Maven Peal * Blockhead Amps * >   * Jim Kelley * Balls Amplification * Roccaforte Amplifiers * > * Gerhart Amplification * Aiken Amplification * The Right Half of AGA * >                        * Lots More * >     NBS Electronics, 230 South Broadway, Denver, CO  80209-1510 > Phone orders/tech support after 1:30 PM Denver time at 303-778-1156 >                        - Our 23rd Year – >                   VISA – MASTERCARD – PAYPAL >                  "Posterity will ne’er overcome >                   A nobler grave than this; >                   Here lie the bones of Blumb the Dumb – >                   Stop, traveler, and piss." >                          - Lord Valve – >           (Paraphrase of Lord Byron, on Lord Castlereagh)

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>I have never had a solid state amp need repair, Tony. Never. >Ed Cregger

Lucky you, Ed. I’ve repaired lots of ‘em; a *lot* more than tube amps. That said, I have a (>30 year-old) Shure Vocal Master on the bench that only needed a good cleaning (mainly). -Dave

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That one has 12ZX7s and (4) EL84s in it.   I just sold its little brother, a DC2 (w 2-EL84s). I am not LV,  but those amps tend to be especially midrangy in the lead channel.  I think the chinese tubes sound pretty good in there for the preamp and the JJ EL84s sound good.  I think I have tried the EI EL84s as well, but if you do that make sure you get them from LV because they have to be screened well.   It is a pretty good little amp.  I haven’t worked on one in a while but I have had several DC2s in here and it is nearly the same amp, except it has the extra 2 output tubes and the EQ.  A speaker might help with the midrange thing too (depending upon the speaker you have in there now).  But those amps are midrangy.  Your leads with a humbucker are going to have that boogie/Santana sound when you really push them unless you can do something with the EQ. An advantage to those amps is that they can sound pretty good with a single coil guitars in my opinion.  If you still don’t like it, then they have excellent resell usually on ebay (because they are pretty good amps). Thorny – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > > Should I sell My Boogie and get a solid state amp. To get it running again > > > it will cost 150-200 dollars for tubes? > > Lord Valve Speaketh: > > If you want to, you can certainly spend that much for a set. > > You can spend a helluva lot less, too.  Post your tube list > > and I’ll specify a set you can afford – a set that’ll *sound* > > good, too, because that’s the important part.  Don’t throw > > your bread away on SS crap – you’ve already got a good > > amp. > > Lord Valve > Hey, LV.  Kind of OT but… > I have Boogie DC3 (if i decide to keep it), and I like the sound > sometimes and other times not.  A lot of time it’s a bit too midrangey > for me. > I’m pretty sure it has stock Boogie tubes in it. > I’m just wondering if you can recommend a different tube that might > sound better in this amp. > Thanks > Shawn >Do you mean, just the power tubes, or the whole shebang? >Also, when folks ask me stuff like this, it’d be helpful if they >posted their amp’s tube compliment along with the questions. >I know a whole *mess* of amps, but not all of ‘em.  And Boogie >has a bunch of those DC-things. >Lord Valve >Expert

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Are we talking DC3s?  they have (4) EL84s.  A DC5 had (2) 6L6s. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Should I sell My Boogie and get a solid state amp. To get it running again > it will cost 150-200 dollars for tubes? >What tubes do you need? I have a bunch of Boogie tubes that I no longer use >(don’t have a Boogie anymore)…6L6s, and some 12AX7s. They’re all in good >shape, as I tend to replace things long before they need replacing. ;-/ >Let me know if you’re interested. >George Reiswig >Song of the River Music

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Nevermind – I just read the .50 cal post.  (2) 6L6s. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Are we talking DC3s?  they have (4) EL84s.  A DC5 had (2) 6L6s. >> Should I sell My Boogie and get a solid state amp. To get it running again >> it will cost 150-200 dollars for tubes? >What tubes do you need? I have a bunch of Boogie tubes that I no longer use >(don’t have a Boogie anymore)…6L6s, and some 12AX7s. They’re all in good >shape, as I tend to replace things long before they need replacing. ;-/ >Let me know if you’re interested. >George Reiswig >Song of the River Music

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Snip – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hey, LV.  Kind of OT but… > I have Boogie DC3 (if i decide to keep it), and I like the sound > sometimes and other times not.  A lot of time it’s a bit too midrangey > for me. > I’m pretty sure it has stock Boogie tubes in it. > I’m just wondering if you can recommend a different tube that might > sound better in this amp. > Thanks > Shawn > Do you mean, just the power tubes, or the whole shebang? > Also, when folks ask me stuff like this, it’d be helpful if they > posted their amp’s tube compliment along with the questions. > I know a whole *mess* of amps, but not all of ‘em.  And Boogie > has a bunch of those DC-things.

The DC3 (Dual Caliber 3) has 12ax7s and EL84s.  It’s 30 watts so I think it has 4 el84s.  What brand would you recommed I put in there? Thanks again, Shawn

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Question:

Im thinking of buying a PA system and working my Yamaha preamp to it directly. But ive been worried about sound issues. Does it sound really undesirable or can it manage? Thanks, Brian

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> Im thinking of buying a PA system and working my Yamaha preamp to it > directly. But ive been worried about sound issues. Does it sound really > undesirable or can it manage? > Thanks, > Brian

It’s done, but most people prefer an amp onstage as well. 1) for better tone and then mic it through the speaker (depending on the amp, it’s also known to be worse tone) 2) for monitoring (a guitar amp is cheaper, and may sound better  than the equip. costs involved in using stage monitors that will  handle your guitar at a volume to cut drums) How it sounds, and whether the system can handle it,  depends on what kind of PA you are going to use. What is the system that you are considering?

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In most cases your guitar ends up going out the PA, back through the monitors, etc., just like everything else on stage. If virtually all of your tone is produced at line levels, from an amp modeling pedalboard, for example, or merely an old Rat — feeding a cable to the board ought to work very well. Arguably, everyone but the bass player (who might require some special handling to save the horns) could go line in for total control of the sound. You have to have a good PA/monitoring setup, and, even more important, a trusted sound man to pull this off.

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> In most cases your guitar ends up going out the PA, back through the > monitors, etc., just like everything else on stage. > If virtually all of your tone is produced at line levels, from an amp > modeling pedalboard, for example, or merely an old Rat — feeding a cable to > the board ought to work very well. Arguably, everyone but the bass player > (who might require some special handling to save the horns) could go line in > for total control of the sound. You have to have a good PA/monitoring setup, > and, even more important, a trusted sound man to pull this off.

It may call for some creative EQ, because a monitor or PA speaker is NOT a guitar speaker.  I have some nice Mackie speakers (SRM450), but they don’t sound right with guitar.  I will sometimes use preamps that have cab simulators to a board then out the Mackies, but even this calls for a some EQ on the board to make it sound right.

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> It may call for some creative EQ, because a monitor or PA speaker is NOT a > guitar speaker.  I have some nice Mackie speakers (SRM450), but they don’t

sound You don’t put the guitar through the PA to hear your ultimate guitar tone, nor do you get off on it. You simply use it to keep the timing right. At least that is what I did. You were also at the mercy of the sound man. There were many times I was sure we sucked only to hear from the crowd between sets that is sounded good. The alternate was also true. I was sure that it rocked only to hear people from the crowd (like my wife) tell me how horrible it was. — – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> right with guitar.  I will sometimes use preamps that have cab simulators to a > board then out the Mackies, but even this calls for a some EQ on the board to > make it sound right.

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Question:

I have my eyes set on either a Peavey Classic 30 or Peavey TransTube Bandit. I need your opinions on which to get.  Both sound great but the Bandit having no tubes make it more reliable.  The Classic, being a tube amp has more of a vintage sound which i really like.  But the bandit can emulate that tone due to its T Dynamics.  So this is really driving me nuts!  I cant decide!  What do you guys think of the Bandit and Classic in terms of sound, feel, versatility , etc.  Pros, Cons.  Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Carlos

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Carlos asks: >I have my eyes set on either a Peavey Classic 30 or Peavey TransTube Bandit. >I need your opinions on which to get.  Both sound great but the Bandit having >no tubes make it more reliable.  The Classic, being a tube amp has more of a >vintage sound which i really like.  But the bandit can emulate that tone due >to its T Dynamics.  So this is really driving me nuts!      I cant decide! What >do you guys think of the Bandit and Classic in terms of sound, feel, >versatility , etc.  Pros, Cons.  Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Solid-state doesn’t equal more reliable. I don’t know anything at all about the Transtube Bandit. I have a Classic 30 which I think is a really excellent sounding amp. However, be aware that the construction of this amp is generally considered lousy, many people report vibration problems (buzzes and rattles), and they’re reportedly a pure bitch to get apart to work on. I haven’t had these problems. Your milage may vary. If you’re still interested, my Classic 30 happens to be for sale ($300+shipping). It doesn’t rattle, has a couple of NOS preamp tubes, is otherwise in like-new condition, with cover and footswitch. Tim Armstrong Chief Zymurgist (Brewer) – Atlanta BeerGarten, Newport News, Virginia

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I owned both the classic 30 and the Transtube Bandit.  My problem with the Bandit was that, while it sounded decent in the store, it couldn’t "cut thru" on a live gig.  The punch just wasn’t there and it always got lost in the band…even when playing rhythym (sp?).   The Classic 30 sounded great (better than two Mesa Boogies I had) but I worried about it’s dependability.  It really felt kind of cheaply made and I heard the tube rattles people talk about.  It’s a shame though…I really liked the sound of it.  Two other complaints with it were: 1) No standby switch 2) It requires a 16 ohm extension speaker. I’m not anti-Peavey…I’ve used a PA head of theirs since 1980 and it’s given me no problems.  I’ve have good experiances with their "Renown 400" combo and others.  But after comparing them to Fenders, they just don’t have the sound and feel I need. I’ve since traded my Bandit + $75 for a SF Deluxe Reverb and haven’t looked back since.   Jeff – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have my eyes set on either a Peavey Classic 30 or Peavey TransTube Bandit. > I need your opinions on which to get.  Both sound great but the Bandit having > no tubes make it more reliable.  The Classic, being a tube amp has more of a > vintage sound which i really like.  But the bandit can emulate that tone due > to its T Dynamics.  So this is really driving me nuts!  I cant decide!  What > do you guys think of the Bandit and Classic in terms of sound, feel, > versatility , etc.  Pros, Cons.  Any info would be greatly appreciated. > Thanks! > Carlos

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I looking for a solid state probably arroung 100 watts. Any suggestions on what to buy?

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> I looking for a solid state probably arroung 100 watts. > Any suggestions on what to buy?

don’t buy solid state. terry

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> I looking for a solid state probably arroung 100 watts. > Any suggestions on what to buy?

I would suggest you buy a 15-30 watt amp for home/practice/jamming, or a 30-50 watt  amp for jamming/performing. Unless you are playing outside, or in a large hall, and not miking your amp, you don’t need 100 watts. And you won’t get anything except ice-pick clean tones from a solid state 100 watt amp running at mid-volume. I would strongly suggest you consider buying a tube amp over the solid state amp. They typically produce better tone, but at the expense of higher routine maintenance (periodic re-tube/re-bias).

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> > > I looking for a solid state probably arroung 100 watts. > > Any suggestions on what to buy?

Randall rg-80 isn’t bad Leslie West used two last time I saw him and he sounded great

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>> I looking for a solid state probably arroung 100 watts. > Any suggestions on what to buy? >don’t buy solid state. >terry

   What a moron you are….what if he wants solid state sound for some reason? Maybe he is a jazz musician and is just looking for a totally clean sound.   I myself think tubes provide superior tone but what it boils down to is trying to find the sound you are looking for…maybe you are not at that level of musicianship yet. Keep trying…   I use tube amps for certain sounds I want to produce and I also use SS amps too for certain sounds I want. Open up you mind man and do yourself a favor…. BTW my SS amp is a Marshall Valvestate 100R, it’s one of the best amps I have ever played including  "all tube signal path amps", 100% SS amps or any where in the middle amps. For my tube amp I use a Fender Blues Jr.   These are both good amps that provide me with sounds I want depending on the type of music I’m playing and what sound I want at any given time…. Anyway to the original poster…for SS amps check out the Marshall Valvestates….

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> I looking for a solid state probably arroung 100 watts. >> Any suggestions on what to buy? >don’t buy solid state. >terry >   What a moron you are….what if he wants solid state sound for some >reason? Maybe he is a jazz musician and is just looking for a totally >clean sound.

Good point, harsh delivery! ;) >Anyway to the original poster…for SS amps check out the Marshall >Valvestates….

Lots of people have been very happy with the Peavey solid state line of amplifiers over the years.  Many of the players in Nashville seem to favor them, a quick glance at the TNN shows will make that point clear.  I personally remember having a Peavey Renown many many years ago — there have been many incarnations of this amp.  I sold mine in the early 80s, so it would be considered OLD by today’s standards; I know the design was upgraded through the years. I recently had a chance to play through one of those amps again at a local pawn shop.  Much to my suprise, it sounded pretty good, even the overdrive was nice and sweet, and the funny thing is I thought id did sound good when I owned it.  I would have preferred to have found out that after pissing away a lot of money on high-end gear, I’d find that Peavey horrible sounding today, but not so.  Plenty of power, and nice singing tones. Then, the contemporary Fender Princeton Chorus amps do sound great for clean tones.  Immense bottom end and a nice stereo chorus effect on a compact 2×10 package.  Of course, there are pretty expensive solid state amps as well, such as the Roland Jazz Chorus, Polytones or the Stewart line of power amps which fetch a lot of dough.  I believe this posting has more to do with thing in the $100 vecinity… If you find a Renown for that amount, give it a try.  I bet you’ll be surprised. If you decide to go the tube route, great.  For $100 you will be lucky to find anything at all.  But in the low price arena, I believe the Fender Pro Junior is hard to beat.  Those things sound heavenly and go for $200 or so.  No reverb, but a gret vintage tone in a pretty pathetically-packaged amp. —      ______  __  __  ______  __  __     / __  / / /_/ / / __  / /  / /    Gil Ayan    / /_/ /  __  / / /_/ / / / / /     Los Angeles, CA

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I have a deal going with my mom where she’ll buy me a new amp. I want to get out of the crappy Solid State KMD I’ve had for so many years. I play rock and blues and would like to know what a good tube amp would be to buy. Price isn’t that much of an issue but I don’t want it outrageous. Please mail me with any help that you can give. Thanks! Nels

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> I have a deal going with my mom where she’ll buy me a new amp. I want to > get out of the crappy Solid State KMD I’ve had for so many years. I play > rock and blues and would like to know what a good tube amp would be to > buy. Price isn’t that much of an issue but I don’t want it outrageous. > Please mail me with any help that you can give. Thanks! > Nels

I like small amps.  You’ll rarely need more than 20 watts, unless you play with aheavy-handed drummer or are just noise-addicted.  Even then, there’s usually a microphone and a PA in a club. With those biases in mind, I can’t tell you what sound you want, but what small amps I love: Fender Blues Junior – good, Fender tone Fender Blues Deluxe – if you *must* have 40 watts Mesa/Boogie Subway Blues – one of the best amps I’ve ever played through, including my ‘77 Deluxe Reverb.  20watts with a half-power jack.  Nice distortion without waking up the neighbors. Ampeg Jet Reissue – 15 watts, reverb, and trem on some models.  Good sound, low price. And then there’s always the used market.  Play through whatever you can get your hands on and then check for reliability and such. Good luck. Matt I.

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In everyone’s opinion, which is the most versatile amp?  Preferably one that is not a combo, but an head and cab.  Also preferably an all tube amp.  Anyone have any opinions on this? -chad.

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Chad, I have several amps & several guitars, and for most amps I found it difficult to  to get away from a perticular sound of that amp.After I got my first Z amp it all changed! My DR.Z  MAZ-38 studio lead  is incredable , I can get so many differant tones from it . Most of the magick of the amp is it’s respons to you . If you pick soft or pick hard , spank it or strum it the Z-amp lets you know. It’s easy to dial in a great tone . I know I can get any sound I’ll ever need from my Z-amps. Your guitars will have a new life you never felt before and you’ll play better because you’ll sound better.They’re all hand made & all tube.                                                                    Dave

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Question:

Any suggestions are welcome – I just bought this amp last week I am looking for NOS all around – I need suggestions for all of the tubes… Tim

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> Any suggestions are welcome – I just bought this amp last > week I am looking for NOS all around – I need suggestions > for all of the tubes… > Tim

What style do you play? What guitar(s)? Why does it have to be NOS? What’s your budget? Looking for gobs of headroom? Early breakup? Dark? Bright? Since you say it is a ‘65, it’s a Vibrolux Reverb, right? Reissue or original?

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Depends what your after.  5881s are fun in those.  What speakers have you got?  Chris – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Any suggestions are welcome – I just bought this amp last > week I am looking for NOS all around – I need suggestions > for all of the tubes… > Tim > What style do you play? What guitar(s)? Why does it have to be > NOS? What’s your budget? > Looking for gobs of headroom? Early breakup? Dark? Bright? > Since you say it is a ‘65, it’s a Vibrolux Reverb, right? Reissue > or original?

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Classic rock – ‘73 strat original – looking for a little edge when cranked.. Tim

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Any suggestions are welcome – I just bought this amp last > week I am looking for NOS all around – I need suggestions > for all of the tubes… > Tim > What style do you play? What guitar(s)? Why does it have to be > NOS? What’s your budget? > Looking for gobs of headroom? Early breakup? Dark? Bright? > Since you say it is a ‘65, it’s a Vibrolux Reverb, right? Reissue > or original?

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All original with Jensens..

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Depends what your after.  5881s are fun in those.  What speakers have > you got?  Chris > > Any suggestions are welcome – I just bought this amp last > > week I am looking for NOS all around – I need suggestions > > for all of the tubes… > > Tim > What style do you play? What guitar(s)? Why does it have to be > NOS? What’s your budget? > Looking for gobs of headroom? Early breakup? Dark? Bright? > Since you say it is a ‘65, it’s a Vibrolux Reverb, right? Reissue > or original?

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> Any suggestions are welcome – I just bought this amp last week I am looking > for NOS all around – I need suggestions for all of the tubes… > Tim

I recently made this inquiry for my (yet to arrive) Super Reverb.  The common answers were NOS Sylvania, RCA or GE.  I’ve got a some RCA black plates and a matched pair of Sylvania’s waiting.  I haven’t scored any GE, but IIRC these are good for power and headroom.

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I have RCA’s in my ‘65 Vibrolux, though Svetlana’s were good too. Get a good rectifier, that’s key. Alex

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Any suggestions are welcome – I just bought this amp last week I am looking > for NOS all around – I need suggestions for all of the tubes… > Tim

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If the budget is large, NOS 7581As for power tubes and a Silver Special (discussed in another thread) in the first preamp holes. Second choice would be the grey plate version of this tube at half the price. Lots of folks also like Mullards first, also as stated in the other thread, I like a Tung Sol (but some of the Tung Sol stuff you’ll see is re-branded RCA.. which ain’t bad either) If you’re willing to step away from NOS for a minute, current production Shuguang 6L6GCs are nice sounding and dirt cheap at under $10 a tube. Someone else suggested Svetlanas (which I assume are now SEDs), but I think these are a bit dark in the Fender amps and lack headroom. NOS Sylvania and GE are nice, but RCA Black Plates are, IMHO, overpriced as hell for what you actually get. For earlier distortion try a 5U4 or 5R4 for the rectifier. In 5AR4/GZ34s the big difference between new and NOS is durability. My (admittedly aging) ears can’t tell the difference, so more a question of how often you want to buy replacements. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Classic rock – ‘73 strat original – looking for a little > edge when cranked.. > Tim > > Any suggestions are welcome – I just bought this amp last > > week I am looking for NOS all around – I need suggestions > > for all of the tubes… > > Tim > What style do you play? What guitar(s)? Why does it have to > be NOS? What’s your budget? > Looking for gobs of headroom? Early breakup? Dark? Bright? > Since you say it is a ‘65, it’s a Vibrolux Reverb, right? > Reissue or original?

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> Any suggestions are welcome – I just bought this amp last week I am looking > for NOS all around – I need suggestions for all of the tubes… > Tim

If it’s not an RI? Tung Sol 5881’s dw

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Maaan, Derek Trucks can play!   His whole band can play and his singer can SING.   No surprises there.  That said, that SR is very nice!   DT knows how to use it, but I don’t think he touched it after the second song … at all. It goes from clean and round to edgy to in your face distorted with only a minor change in volume.  He had a road case partially blocking the front, but I had a clear shot from two of the speakers.   It probably would have been a bit loud otherwise … small venue.   I’ve been a SR owner and operator for a lot of years, and I know a great sounding one when I hear it. Doesn’t hurt to have DT showing it off, but I gotta give props … Nice work, LV.

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SR, Super Six or Super Reverb?  I miss having a Six!    Chris – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Maaan, Derek Trucks can play!   His whole band can play and his singer can > SING.   No surprises there.  That said, that SR is very nice!   DT knows how > to use it, but I don’t think he touched it after the second song … at all. > It goes from clean and round to edgy to in your face distorted with only a > minor change in volume.  He had a road case partially blocking the front, > but I had a clear shot from two of the speakers.   It probably would have > been a bit loud otherwise … small venue.   I’ve been a SR owner and > operator for a lot of years, and I know a great sounding one when I hear it. > Doesn’t hurt to have DT showing it off, but I gotta give props … Nice > work, LV.

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> SR, Super Six or Super Reverb?  I miss having a Six!    Chris

Super Reverb … a Super six would have been too much in this place. Don

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> Maaan, Derek Trucks can play!   His whole band can play and his singer can > SING.   No surprises there.  That said, that SR is very nice!   DT knows how > to use it, but I don’t think he touched it after the second song … at all. > It goes from clean and round to edgy to in your face distorted with only a > minor change in volume.  He had a road case partially blocking the front, > but I had a clear shot from two of the speakers.   It probably would have > been a bit loud otherwise … small venue.   I’ve been a SR owner and > operator for a lot of years, and I know a great sounding one when I hear it. > Doesn’t hurt to have DT showing it off, but I gotta give props … Nice > work, LV.

Lord Valve Speaketh: Actually, I haven’t done any mods to that one besides upping the input capacitance to 50uF.  It also has a tremelo bypass switch, and Derek runs it with no tube in the #1 hole.  (Changes the cathode resistance on the other channel.)  It’s running 3 Pyle Drivers and one Weber DT10 v1.1.  DT smoked one of the Pyles a couple of months ago – Ted Weber has it at his shop now for a recone (and a reverse- engineering session… ;-) so one of the spares for the Super Six went into the BFSR.  BTW, I’m running metalfilms for preamp plate loads (heresy!) and my "custom DT tube set."  Seems to do ok.  ;-) Lord Valve Tone Chaperone      VISIT MY WEBSITE:  http://www.nebsnow.com/LordValve       I specialize in top quality HAND SELECTED NOS and         current-production vacuum tubes for guitar and            bass amps.  Good  prices, fast service.      QSC amps, RNC compressors, lots of other good stuff!    Partial Client List: * Derek Trucks/Allman Brothers Band * * Meatloaf * Catherine Wheel * Yo La Tengo * Let’s Go Bowling *   * John Hall * Tyrin Benoit * Eugene Fodor * Dale Bruning *  * Komet Amplification * Dr. Z * Maven Peal * Blockhead Amps *   * Jim Kelley * Balls Amplification * Roccaforte Amplifiers *  * Gerhart Amplification * The Right Half of AGA * Lots More *     NBS Electronics, 230 South Broadway, Denver, CO  80209-1510 Phone orders/tech support after 1:30 PM Denver time at 303-778-1156                        - Our 23rd Year –                   VISA – MASTERCARD – PAYPAL   "I got the chop…I’ll never get popped."  -  Tower of Power

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<< I’m running metalfilms for preamp plate loads (heresy!) and >><BR><BR> Whew, I thought you were going to say orange drops. Wouldn’t want it sounding "sterile" now would we? ROTFLMAO. — Dr. Nuketopia Sorry, no e-Mail. Spam forgeries have resulted in thousands of faked bounces to my address.

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Has anyone played the new Fender Cyber amp,  ? I understand that it only gives you Fender amp sounds, where as the Line 6 AX2 gives you all kinds of amps. I have had all sorts of Marshall Boogie and Fender Amps but right now I am playing with the AX2 as a supposing purest re valves I have to take my hat off to the AX2 it’s great. But is the new Fender Cyber amp better  ? I would love to hear from anyone who has played both ! Does the Fender give you any dirty sounds like the position 10 11 12 on the AX2 ???  If you can let me know . Big Derek.

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Hello B. Derek,     I can’t really help you much because I am an old foggie who likes stuff like my `74 Marshall Super Lead half stack, a Matchless Lightning 15 combo, a tweed Champ, etc.     Also, there is debate over whether having a zillion "sounds" in one amp is really needed.  What works for me with my tube amps is 1) a good clean sound, 2) a good overdrive sound, 3) enough sustain and boost to do a solo. I don’t have any desire to have my amps sound like a bunch of other amps, because I really like the way my amps sound.     If you feel the need to have a bunch of sounds in one wrapper, I’d suggest you actually try the modelling amp(s) and let your ears be the judge.  It would be good to be able to demo a good tube amp as well – hey, you might want to try a real Super Reverb, a Twin, a Vox, Marshall, etc, so you can fairly evaluate the modelling amps "patch" on that particular amp. From guys who I respect who post on this NG, the modelling amps fall way short in the tone department.  The Line 6 stuff I’ve played and demo’d sounded stuffed, compressed, flat and not my cup of tea.     Good luck with your music and have some fun. Walk in Beauty, Peace.  Scott

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I have a Digital Music Corp. ‘Cabtone’ speaker emulation system for sale. It’s a really useful and toneful device that allows you to get the tone of your favorite rig to tape in an accurate and hassle free fashion.  Get more details here: http://www.voodoolab.com/cabtone.html This box is in fine shape.  Lists for $149, this one is $80 plus shipping from Atlanta. thanks Kevin Morrison

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hey i’m in atlanta. tell me about this doohickey. would it work on the "record output" from a conventional guitar amp, like the out from a Boogie orMarshall? howldog – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have a Digital Music Corp. ‘Cabtone’ speaker emulation system for sale. > It’s a really useful and toneful device that allows you to get the tone of > your favorite rig to tape in an accurate and hassle free fashion.  Get more > details here: > http://www.voodoolab.com/cabtone.html > This box is in fine shape.  Lists for $149, this one is $80 plus shipping > from Atlanta. > thanks > Kevin Morrison

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